Croquetas de jamón were filled with an oozy mixture of béchamel and real Spanish serrano ham. The tortilla Española was rich and savory, larded with tender slices of potato. Whistle wetted, I ordered the pan con tomate and, lo, it featured mashed, ripe tomatoes spread on crusty country bread and topped with uncured anchovies. There were vermouths and sherry from Emilio Lustau, the great Spanish producer, and even a Spanish beer, Estrella Galicia Premium Lager, among the six on tap. The all-Spanish list features five whites, five reds and two sparklers, most of them available by the glass or bottle. The Venezuelan-American couple operate two casual Venezuelan spots (both called Cachapas y Mas) in Manhattan and Queens, but both trace their roots to Spain, and it has long been Larry’s.
The dining room has the cozy vibe of a wine cellar and, once seated, I dipped my toe into two tapas and a glass of wine. The location looked promising enough, perched at the edge of Al Grovers Marina so that the spacious deck (with its own bar) at least has a view of some boats, if not the water. The Venezuelan-American couple operate two casual Venezuelan spots (both called Cachapas y Mas) in Manhattan and Queens, but both trace their roots to Spain, and it has long been Larry’s dream to honor that heritage with a restaurant. Authentic Spanish food is hard to come by on Long Island, but those seeking a true tapas experience - not to mention a proper, cooked-to-order paella - will have an easier time now that Larry and Jackie Villalobos have arrived in Freeport.
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